Halong Bay

We were picked up from the hotel in a nice van carrying 4 other people.  We drove for hours and took convenient rest stops in shops full of other white people and eventually arrived to Halong  Bay.  The Vietnamese are very proud that Halong Bay was just recognized as one of the “new” 7 wonders of the world and honestly it is easy to see why it is breathtaking.  We were sorted by our boat and quickly whisked away to our ship.  Brent and I can honestly say it was the most amazing and “posh” (a word I will start to now use thanks to my Aussie friends) experience we have ever had.  Our boat, or junk as they call them, was modeled after old Spanish Pirate ships, full of dark wood and extravagant details.  There were no tvs or phones for most of the trip and it was easy to forget that we had just left a city of over 6 million as there was not a sound or other boat insight.  We were on the boat with 18 other people and were blessed to like every one of them.  There was even a family from Eugene, what a small world! 

We spend the days kayaking  around the 1000 islands (well we didn’t get to them all..ha), eating 4 course meals and sitting with this feeling of total amazement that we were blessed to see such a site. Our crew were lovely and very friendly and even took us to a small fishing village where the residents all live together on the water.  Up until a couple of years ago the fishing people would all live separately but because of UNESCO stating the Bay was a heritage site and giving some funds to fixing it up they were able to build a primary school for the children and convince about 25 families to band together as a village for their children.  The mayor greeted us as we arrived and you could see there was a lot of pride that they had for their village and school.  We even were able to sample some of their local booze…wasn’t as bad as I thought and was pretty smooth going down, even if it came out of a old gas container!  

It was such a lovely time and almost surreal in the experience.  We just kept saying “can you believe we are here?!” as everything was above and beyond our highest expectations.  The last night on the ship our crew had created a bbq dinner in a cave, which was something I had been looking forward to!  They again did not disappoint, we took our small junk boat toward the cave and it was dark out and all we could see ahead was twinkling lights and our whole group was just silent taking everything in.  We had to climb about 90 stairs, which were all light by twinkling lights and at the entrance of the cave was hundreds of tea lights (and a few strategically placed spot lights) lighting up the two room cave.  Everyone had dressed up a bit and our whole crew was there to welcome us.  Our table sat in the middle and we feasted on an some amazing just cooked via fire seafood.  As I sipped our wine and everyone was aglow in candlelight it almost felt a bit like a dream it was so perfect.  Our chef had even prepared amazingly done food art for each course and it was pretty humbling seeing how much effort they had all made to make sure the experience was memorable. Our guide shared with us the story of the Bay and how the pirates were coming to attack the Vietnamese people and as they cried out for help a dragon came down from the sky and fired out pearls from her mouth.  These pearls turned into thousands of limestone islands which caused the fast moving pirate ships to crash and perish.  He said it with such gusto and show it was easy to believe that this was possible.  At the end of the dinner our captain made a couple of speeches about how thankful they were for us coming and the crew proceeded to sing some Vietnamese folk songs.  After that a group of woman in our group, mostly from New Zealand serenaded them back and I know I was not the only one that felt truly blessed.  As we pulled away from the island and back onto our boat it really hit me how lucky I am to experience this site because as the word spreads I am sure that being able to look out for miles and only see one other junk and a few local fishing boats will not be the case.  Though we will sure treasure our three days there. 

Organized Chaos.

Vietnam is full of organized chaos.  When you first arrive it seems that everywhere you look is chaos, the traffic, the stalls serving pho, the millions of people milling about though the longer you are here you realize that instead of chaos it is instead more like a dance.  You start to see the give and take of the mopeds, the people, the stalls, that the small amount of chaos adds a bit of danger, of excitement, of life.  This dance is what makes Hanoi so intoxicating and addicting.  Each time you cross the street or walk into the markets you become of something larger,you become part of the dance, the sway, the caress, the rush.  I have traveled a bit and have never experienced such a thing.  We find ourselves captivated by watching it in all things and of drawing deep breaths and laughing by the thrill of it all.  It is quite lovely and I wish we could stay for much much longer.

The Hair Cut

Brent’s hair was at an all time new long and while he kept saying he was gonna get a haircut but it just did not happen before we left.  So one night we were wondering around the “39 streets” of Old Quarter looking for a barber and all we could find was a very “local” ladies hair salon.  It was about 9pm and in we walked to their little stall full of hair products and various styling tools.  I pointed to Brent said “short” while holding my fingers close together and said “cut?” and they grabbed him and started working away.  Brent was pretty nervous and kept saying “I don’t know about this Lace”…and it was pretty touch and go for a bit as they wanted him to be a bit more stylish then he was prepared and while they thinned, texturized and tried to spike away Brent was able to show what he wanted by using hand signs and nods.  We were there for over an hour and all the ladies around us acted like they had a very white lady and gentlemen everyday getting their hair cut.  As Brent’s hair was almost done many of the ladies repeated “handsome” with a big smile and a pat on the back for me and the stylist asked for my approval on his hair cut and style, which I appreciated.  They charged us an arm and a leg (10 bucks)but sent us off with goodbyes and a much more handsome beau for myself ;)  

The next morning we took a day tour out of Hanoi to visit Dinh Tien Hoang Temple.  It was built in the 11^th century and we were very thankful for our student guides as we were able to see a lot of the symbolism in the Temple.  It was quite lovely and had big manicured garden beds throughout.  The interesting things about the temples as they usually have three layers, either within the gardens or the number of actual buildings and the farther in the temple grounds you go the higher you must step up, pretty significantly, to go into the building.  We were told that this is so that when you pass through each layer your mind should become more and more focused and clear.  The final passage into the building they make it high so that you notice that you step up and are on higher ground and your mind should be clear.  I hope I am remembering this right….anyhoo it is quite unique.  We also visited Tam Coc (three caves) and took a small boat with just our driver and us around the Ngo Dong River.  It is quite fun and our guide paddled with his feet!  (I have photos which I will add of this)  You end up going under some pretty low “caves” and popping out the other side.  It was pretty interesting as we were able to witness quite closely the local people fishing and catching fish and frogs. The drivers all were lively and full of laughter.  I bet they were making fun of us or what not but their infectious attitude had us grinning even though we had idea what they were saying or joking about.

 

After the boat trip we hopped on some bikes and biked to the Bich Dong Pagoda.  It was amazing.  Carved into the mountain in the early 15^th century it has quite some intense steps up!  We were huffing and puffing…the VERY humbling thing is though as were coming down 2 old ladies (at least in their 70’s if not  80’s and not an inch over 4 ft each) were hauling bag of concrete up!  Brent and I vowed to visit the gym MUCH more often…..oy.  It was quite a lovely pagoda as there are shrines and Buddhas’ hidden into the mountain and it feels very Indiana Jones’ish when you “discovered” a small shrine or carving.  We biked back to our bus swigged a Hanoi Beer and rushed back on the bus and Hanoi. 

The Beginning.

(can't post pics as our internet is quite dodgy and our photos quite large...will add once we get home)

We are in love with Vietnam!  From the perspiration from the heat, smell of cooking food and millions of people who are quick to smile it is easy to fall in love.  Well worth the 18 hours in the air and over 25 at airports.  It is easy to get swallowed up by the city, with over 6 million inhabitants and more people shoved into one square mile then I have ever seen, it is easy to become overwhelmed though the people prevent that from happening, from the young families who all come out after work into the park for their kids to play together, or the older individuals waking up early to do tai chi by the lake instead of feeling alone and separated one feels embraced and included. 

Day 2
We started our day with a lovely tour given by college students.  It is a pretty excellent program called Hanoi Kids that aims to help university students become educated about their heritage, better their English and meet new people.  Our guides were a little late and very apologetic.  Come to find out one had been in a moped wreck and banged up his knee pretty bad though he wouldn't hear of not giving us a tour.  I think every country should have a program like this!  They helped us figure out what taxi services wouldn't rip us off, how to exchange money and other cultural do's & don'ts.  They also took us to the Hoa Lo Prison, Temple of Literature, and the Army Museum.  Both guides had been trained to teach us more about their culture and these exhibits.  I learned a lot about the symbolism in their buildings and also how connected they are to the 5 elements and in most buildings (including shrines) these are incorporated.  It was important to the students that they actually helped us understand and we got some "mini tests" to see if we were paying attention.  ha!  The Hoa Lo Prison was very humbling and also insightful as our students wanted to make sure that we saw how the Vietnamese had treated our troops that had been bombed down and it seemed important to them for us to agree that they had treated them very well (which it seemed that had!).  It is crazy to see how destructive the war was to Vietnam yet it seems like little was held against us.  I wish I had more time to explore this yet I will leave it at that for now and expand later as I myself become more educated.

The students cannot and will not take any money for their tours but you can buy them lunch!  I remember what it was like to be a student so we of course went to the best place they knew and bought everything on the menu!  Ha.  It was a neat place where the tables looked like traditional Asian tables that you squat at yet when you went to squat down there was hidden space under the tables for your legs so it was actually quite comfortable.  We tried fried frog legs and squid.  I think Dinh was trying to test us but little did she know that we are willing to eat anything once.    

I think my favorite part about touring with our students were the questions they wanted to ask about our culture.  Dihn is only 21 and very obsessed with “romance” and had all sorts of questions about when we were getting married and having babies…I asked if she had met my mother and she laughed.  Her sweet nature and quick smile made it easy to feel care free as well. She told us about her parents who both worked for Hyundai and that they have to work 7 days a week and that Vietnamese typically do not get days off, except for a couple during their TET holiday.  She said if they do take time off they do not get paid and I will say it made Brent and I feel pretty privileged.  She showed us how to cross the street “safely”….you just start walking at a very constant/consistent pace and the cars/mopeds/buses/people on bikes should get out of your way…it is a very exhilarating experience I shall tell you.  Pretty much you just start walking at a very consistent and brisk pace and *hopefully* the mopeds/buses/bikes/cars will dodge you.  It is thrilling and also very humbling because each time I make it across I am thankful to still be around! 

We also were able to see the local Water Puppet Show.  We arrived and learned that this tradition only occurs in two cities in the world and started by farmers who had a little downtime in their rice paddies.  The show was very good as they had traditional singers and instruments play while telling the stories with these puppets that somehow were able to move and “talk” even though they were in the water.  It was only an hour and went quickly because even though we had no idea what they stories were about just trying to figure out how they could do it was exciting and puzzling.  The Vietnamese take a lot of pride in their heritage and the people of Hanoi take a lot of pride in their “claim to fame” as water puppet masters. 

 

Tales of the Adventure

Vietnam and I are having a little love affair.....srsly.  The air is rich with the smell of people, smoke and food.  Everyone is quick to smile and proud of their heritage.  These posts will be quick and more in line of helping me recall than to weave a story for you....I apologize in advance there is just too much to see and do.  It is not because the country does warrant a lovely story....a very lovely one.

Day .05-1

entrance to ladies room in Korea.

Soooo I purposely did not calculate how long we would be in the air mostly because I knew it would be worth it and also because I am bad at math...so after over 18 hours in the air (and 6 whole movies watched) we made it!  B & I really lucked out because we got a 4 seat row to ourselves!  Still painful but liveable.  We had a lay over in Seoul and my brief one hour there already has me in love!  They had actually bathroom toilets that were high-tech and little stalls with super short and little toilets for small children!  There is nothing I don't like more then a miniature toilet...soo cute!  Once we arrived we got our bags, our driver was waiting (always a good sign!) and off we were.  B & I were totally grimy and grumpy so we were ready to go to bed! Though as we were leaving the airport for some reason the police did not like our driver and started pounding our car and slightly rough housing him (and some other drivers close by).  They made him get out and find his paperwork in the trunk.  We were pretty freaked mostly because it is dark, we can't understand a word and then they have us pull forward and into a pretty dark area.  We waited for like 15 minutes and they corralled the drivers up and after what seemed like nothing else they were able to leave.  I am pretty sure some "taxes" were collected  but Brent and I were just glad to go and our driver said "fine, fine".  Got our adrenaline pumping for sure!  We finally arrived to our hotel a little on edge but ready for bed!  The room is fine yet the bed is as stiff as a board.  We are still here as we just haven't had time to actually move but let me tell you I am ready for a massage or two!! Shows me that we aren't young any more.

Vietnam

So for the next few weeks the blog will be "transformed" into all things travel journal.  My house is a shit show right now and we just realized not only have we lost one visa but we don't even have appropriate luggage...but no worries this trip is gonna happen even if I have to use my special lady charms to impress an official to let us in.

I need this vaca like a fish needs water and Vietnam is calling my name like a Siren over the wind.

Lacy